COLLIOURE AND THE SURROUNDING AREA
Collioure is a delight - the “jewel of the Côte Vermeille”. Sheltering under the hilltop Château Royal, the pink and russet houses of the old town are grouped around the small bay, filled with small, colourful fishing boats and visiting yachts. It comes as no surprise that it was a favourite with Matisse and Derain, and was often visited by Picasso. Aspiring artists still flock here every year.
The old lighthouse at the entrance to the port is now the bell tower of the church Notre Dame des Anges. The sacristy contains the church’s treasure, including 15th century paintings and a 16th century processional cross.
The old village, overlooking the tiny beaches of St Vincent and Plage du Nord, was originally Spanish and now full of restaurants and bars The local speciality is anchovies – they are caught in their thousands, bottled in brine or used to stuff green olives.
Collioure provides the perfect setting for festivals. Good Friday sees the Procession de la Sanch, a procession of penitents similar to that in Perpignan, but held at night by torch light. From April to September, the streets and squares are given over to les sardanes, troupes of dancers, dressed in traditional red, white and black, performing the sardana two or three times a week.
The main festival, the Festa Major de Collioure, takes place from 14 to 18 August, but space is limited and tickets must be reserved in advance by phone from the tourist office ( 0033 4 68 82 15 47).
Wherever you roam in Roussillon, you’re bound to end up in the region’s only major town of Perpignan, which is easily in reach of all the major attractions.
The city is immensely vibrant from the dilapidated maze of streets in the Arab quarter selling exotic spices, to the bright, almost gaudily pink and blue painted shop facades. The main attraction is the Palais des Rois de Majorque in Rue des Archers which should be on your hit list - a vast 13th century fortified palace. See also the Cathédrale St Jean with its pebble and red bricked exterior and the Place de la Loge, the bustling heart of the old town.
Céret, south west of Perpignan has an 18th century church with an ornate 14th century doorway but is also known for its cherries and wine. The town was also a centre for the Cubism movement which the small modern art museum celebrates.
Between Collioure and Perpignan lies the tiny village of Elne. Hannibal spent some time here before marching on to Rome but it suffered badly during the middle ages. There remains only some fine houses and the cathedral which is worth a visit.
Prades, to the west of Perpignan is a good base for exploring the Massif du Canigou. The town itself has a certain charm with its pink marble paving stones in Rue du Palais de Justice and 12th century Eglise St Pierre, but it is most famous for the Festival Pablo Cassals which takes place from the end of July to the middle of August each year. The festival attracts some of the greatest musicians to the performances in the ninth century abbey of St Michel de Cuxa and neighbouring churches. There is a tiny museum to his memory in the same building as the tourist office with other local exhibits, arts and crafts.
Close to the Spanish border, the ski resort of Font Romeu has been used as a high altitude training base for French Olympic athletes, and it still attracts those looking for an active holiday, in winter and summer.
Tautavel is a charming village in the heart of the Corbières vineyards. It became famous with the discovery of ancient humanoid bones in the Caune de l’Arago. Ten years later, Tautavel Man was put together and dated to 450,000 years old. The museum, Musée de la Préhistoire explains the background.
Between Font Romeu and Prades, Mont Louis is the highest fortified town in France. Constructed by Vauban, the ramparts and citadel still stand. For a superb view of the surrounding countryside, pass through le bastion du lieutenant Michel Gilles, a vaulted passage to an outcrop of rock.
For more good views, take le petit train jaune (the little yellow train) from Villefranche de Conflent, west of Prades. It runs for 63 km up to the Spanish border at Bourg Madame, but it is not a tourist train, the railway having been built at the beginning of the 20th century to transport iron ore. The most spectacular section is between Villefranche and Font Romeu. Information is available at the SNCF station in Villefranche.
Finally don't miss Castlenou a beautiful hill top village with a Chateau at the top giving fantastic views of the surrounding area.
